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I was struck by the profound convergence of topics that make the Kneading Conference timely. A reporter commented that
it seems the event is more than just a baking conference, you get to hear about philosophies of baking and farming too. Indeed, from Fred
Kirschenman's introduction about the importance of building healthy soils to heal the earth, reverse damaging climate trends and grow healthy crops,
to Jeffrey Hamelman's address reminding us the importance of crafting bread with our hands, the real food revolution was never more apparent than
at the Kneading Conference this year. I feel so fortunate to be living at a time when the world is reawakening to the importance of real food grown nearby,
including real bread, and grains grown and milled locally.
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Artisan Bread Fair, 2010, was beyond any of our wildest expectations. After its very successful birth last year, we worked hard to sustain growth. We got a lot more vendor interest and had over 40 this year. Needing more space, we moved to the Skowhegan Fairgrounds and filled Constitution Hall and its surroundings with a satisfying mix of businesses ranging from bakers, oven builders and equipment sellers to artists and silversmiths, with everything in between. And there was great music! But nothing could have really prepared us for the mighty stream of people coming in through the gates. And they kept on coming all day. From photographs of the parking field, we estimate that over 2000 people attended, which is certainly conservative. This is the only event like it in the country, maybe the world--a fair devoted exclusively to that most ancient and mystical of all foods, Bread.
Artisan Bread Fair, 2011, is already lying in wait with its own surprises...
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We say that the Kneading Conference is about reviving the practice of locally crafted bread from seed to loaf. That's the beat we work to as we spend the better part of a year making the plans that draw farmers, millers, artisan bakers, and oven builders to Skowhegan to bring forth a common purpose: delicious, nourishing breads from grains grown as nearby as possible. Now that the fourth Kneading Conference is behind us and the moments are shape-shifting into memories, something other than the lists of details that we crossed off each month stands out.
The notes from participants speak of community more than bread, inspiration more than grain, and renewed hope more than oven-building. People left the conference with new skills, plans, and resources, definitely. But the "something other" that will bring us again to Skowhegan to look for new angles on our old favorite, real bread, is difficult to pinpoint. It's a quiet thing until someone says something funny; it's not serious until an insightful remark momentarily lifts the veil that protects us from what we have collectively lost; it's pragmatic until a philosopher reminds us that in the things we do we exercise our values. It's something unnamed but known by how we keep the land, how we feed one another, and what we leave behind as our legacy for future generations.

This year, regardless of where we came from or who we are, we became the temporary landlords of our common ground. We were there to relearn and rewrite the leasehold terms. Some of us will take these terms home and apply them and bring them back better. This is the inspired, funny, serious energy that comes about in a group of people who spend two days talking up dirt, grain afflictions, and the moods of dough. As one participant wrote, "A deep thank you for this wonderful experience. As a grandfather I feel more hopeful for the future of my children and grandchildren. I feel more hopeful not because we're going to change the world but because this community exists."
As always, the stars of the conference were the presenters. One participant summed it up: "I loved the passion, talent, camaraderie and humility of the presenters." The two featured keynote speakers were a farmer and a baker. Opening day, Dr. Fred Kirschenmann, farmer and author, connected the recent history of poor agricultural decisions to the opportunity unfolding as we reset our compasses toward ecological and cultural health. What is so compelling about Fred is his intelligent, visionary re-thinking of the way forward. Not wanting to set off alarms, but the word that comes to mind to describe Fred's inspired thought and gentle leadership is "revolutionary".
On the second day, Jeffrey Hamelman, employee-owner of King Arthur Flour and author, shared glimpses of his physical and metaphysical road trip from baker's apprentice to master baker. Artisan bread acts as a place holder in our collective conscience. A taste of warm bread reminds us of the simple pleasures of hand-made things. Listening to Jeffrey, it could be said that a personal story about bread is a universal story about us and that Jeffrey embodies bread's soul-satisfying narrative.
All in all, from the testimonials of participants and the comments of organizers who have been working on the Kneading Conference since the beginning, this was the best year yet. We'll plan for 2011 with the goal in mind of bringing back the spell that people, bread, and sunshine sparked in the summer of 2010. We'll look forward to and welcome the fresh infusion of ideas and perspectives that people who will sign on from around the country and around the world will bring to the next gathering. Please plan to join us in Skowhegan during the summer of 2011!
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Making naturally pure and consistently high-performing flour for over 200 years. King Arthur Flour offers the kinds of products and customer service that are unparalled in the industry. The result is a corporate culture of passion and sincerity that propels them to honor their customers and celebrate a company they can truly call their own.
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Their Daily Bread Is a Local Call Away
New York Times article by Marian Burros
Read Here
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Quimby Family Foundation Grant
Super news! The Kneading Conference has been awarded a major grant by the Quimby Family Foundation in the amount of $48,000. Read press release
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The Revolution is in the Backyard: the Importance of History and Small Scale Gardeners in the Present and Future Wheat Movement. College of the Atlantic Blog Link from one of our work study members. Read Here
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Gastronomica Article
(Gastronomica.pdf)
This article originally appeared in the May 2010 issue of Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture, published by University of California Press, www.gastronomica.org.
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